A ricer is the easiest way to get properly smooth mash, with no lumps and no gluey texture, because it breaks the potato up without overworking it. It’s even more useful when you’re cooking for a crowd. This version is rich enough for Christmas dinner and can be made ahead, so it’s one less thing to juggle while the turkey rests.
Serves: 8 · Time: about 40 minutes · You’ll need: a potato ricer, a large pan, a small pan and a colander
Ingredients
- 2kg floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or King Edward
- 125g butter, cubed
- 200ml whole milk (or half milk, half double cream for extra richness)
- Salt and white pepper
- Optional: a little grated nutmeg, or chopped chives to finish
Method
- Boil the potatoes. Peel them and cut them into even chunks, about the size of a golf ball. Put them in a large pan of cold, well-salted water, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until a knife slides in with no resistance.
- Warm the milk and butter. While the potatoes cook, heat the milk and butter together in a small pan until the butter has melted. Don’t let it boil.
- Drain and steam dry. Drain the potatoes well, return them to the empty pan over a low heat for a minute, and let the steam escape.
- Rice them hot. Press the potatoes through the ricer back into the pan (or into a warm bowl), a few pieces at a time. Fill the basket no more than two-thirds full.
- Fold in the butter and milk. Pour in the warm butter and milk a little at a time, folding it through gently with a spatula until the mash is smooth and creamy. Season with salt, white pepper and nutmeg, if using. Don’t beat it.
Making it ahead
On the morning: make the mash up to the end of step 5, then spoon it into a heatproof bowl, cover it and set it over a pan of barely simmering water. It will keep warm for a couple of hours. Stir in a splash of hot milk before serving if it has thickened.
The day before: make the mash, let it cool quickly, then cover and refrigerate. On the day, reheat it in a covered dish in a 180°C (160°C fan) oven for about 30 to 40 minutes, stirring halfway and adding a little hot milk and butter, until it’s piping hot all the way through.
Tips for a crowd
- A large-basket ricer means fewer refills when you’re doing 2kg of potatoes.
- Rice the potatoes while they’re hot. Cooled potato is harder to press and turns gluey.
- Keep the potatoes on a low heat while you rice in batches, so the last ones are still hot.
- Fold, don’t beat. The ricer has already done the work.
- Rinse the ricer straight away. Potato that dries in the holes sets hard.
Variations
- Root veg mash: swap a third of the potatoes for celeriac, parsnip, swede or carrot. Cook them in the same pan until very soft and rice them with the potato.
- Mustard mash: stir in a tablespoon of wholegrain mustard at the end.
- Cheesy mash: fold in a handful of grated mature cheddar just before serving.
Common questions
How many potatoes do I need per person?
Allow about 200 to 250g of raw potatoes per person when mash is one of several sides, as it usually is at Christmas.
Are mashed potatoes better with a ricer?
For smooth mash, yes. A ricer breaks the potato into fine strands in one press, so there are no lumps and far less risk of gluey mash than with a masher. See our ricer vs masher comparison.
Do I need to peel the potatoes?
Not with most ricers, as the skin stays behind in the basket. For a large batch, though, peeling first saves clearing out the basket after every press.
Can I freeze leftover mash?
Yes. Mash made with plenty of butter freezes well for up to 3 months. Defrost it in the fridge and reheat until piping hot, stirring in a little milk.
Why is my riced mash gluey?
Usually because the potatoes cooled before ricing, a waxy variety was used, or the mash was beaten rather than folded after adding the butter and milk.
Need a ricer? Our guide to the best potato ricers in the UK compares seven, including large-basket models for big batches. New to ricers? Read how to use a potato ricer. No ricer at all? Try one of these potato ricer substitutes.
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